Well astute observers would notice that there has been a change of plan for this yarn. I was making Precious Metal socks, but I didn’t think the pattern stood out enough. I have moved onto Monkey Socks by Cookie A – it is a free pattern, but I purchased it via Ravelry (I believe designers should get paid).
As per usual, I am just using the pattern for the lace chart and doing my own thing for the actual sock construction.
I am a bit late getting into this one – I think the KAL has finished.
This was designed by Louise Tillbrook and she released a bit every week for four weeks. I had good intentions, but also wanted to finish my integrated socks. I will probably do heels and toes the way I like and just use the pattern for the pattern around the leg and on top of the foot.
This yarn is fabulous – Peppermint Latte from fiber lily. I have the Swish Sock base (85% merino and 15% Nylon).
I am always up for a new way of knitting top-down socks (not such a keen fan of toe up). Anyway, this one doesn’t have a heel flap (or at least one where you knit backwards and forwards). This is what the designer ( Ailbíona McLochlainn) says
The Integrated Heel looks and fits similarly to a traditional heel flap and gusset. The difference is in the process. Like the traditional sock heel, the Integrated Heel features a heel flap, a gusset, and a turned heel. Unlike the traditional sock heel, the Integrated Heel is worked almost entirely in the round. This eliminates the need to work the heel flap back-and-forth flat, and to later pick up stitches along its edges. The resulting benefits include: a gusset with more give (since you aren’t picking up stitches along a finished edge); fewer interruptions to workflow (which, in turn, speeds up the knitting process considerably); and excellent fit, with ample opportunity for heel-depth customisation.
I bought the pattern and used the ideas rather than the specific pattern to knit my sock. I liked it. I need to wear it a bit before deciding if it is my new go to heel type (and I still have a second sock to knit).
The yarn is from Dingo Dye Works – in the Desert Rose colourway. It’s beautiful and feels fabulous, so soft.
This is the progress on my Braid Hills cardigan by Kate Davies. I am using Buachaille (I bought it as a kit) – in the Macallum shade. It is beautiful – the colour, but it also feels lovely.
I bought the kit two years ago (and have stashed it under the bed), so I can’t remember what size I was planning on making. I have 9 skeins, so I could knit size 1, 2, 3 or 4 and I have decided on 3, which officially only requires 8 skeins, so I have a bit of wriggle room.
The pattern is super-easy to follow – I am in the middle of the waist shaping at the moment – the sleeve caps might be tricky, but I am up for a challenge.
I finished my socks – these have the best gusset and toes of any I have made.
I used the suggestions (for both toes and gusset) in Custom Socks.
I think for my next pair of socks I will try something toe up, but before that I am going to knit the Braid Hills Cardigan – I bought this as a kit two years ago and now I am going to finish it. I have swatched and I seemed to have achieved gauge (I know swatches can lie, so we will see what happens – it is all about the process).
There are many talented independent yarn dyers (like Saltwater Yarns, Dingo Dye Works and Fiber Lily – just to list the Australian ones I know) and I am a sucker for a pretty sock yarn. Consequently my stash is large – 23 skeins. I know we all have different levels of tolerance for the size of our stashes, but I am starting to feel over-whelmed. I realise that socks are my first love – and I am going to spend July concentrating on knitting socks from my stash (this might mean avoiding the fabulous Calico and Ivy – they have a magnificent yarn collection and I never leave empty-handed.
I also like to buy souvenir sock yarn (three of the above skeins I bought on holiday) and I am not going to stop doing that, so I do need to stop buying pretty the rest of the time.
This is a fabulous project for when you want to knit, but don’t want to knit anything that requires too much focus – watching TV, etc. All I have to remember is to K2Tog either side of the marker on the right side rows. And I get to use all of the fabulous sock yarn I’ve bought over the years – it is my one weakness (as Dorcas Lane says in Larkrise to Candleford). I am just randomly selecting a ball and then knitting a square. Once I have made 13 squares (I have 13 balls), I will start again. My plan is to make a 16 by 16 blanket, so I have a long way to go.
I have lost track of the number of times I have started to knit this yarn! It is Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk Dk in Tease. My latest effort is here – I just seem to lose concentration and it all goes pear-shaped.
I decided to knit something without a pattern/texture/stitch design to see if I could get the basic jumper shaping thing sorted.
I did what I am calling a cheat’s swatch in the round (instructions were here) – I managed to get gauge (both stitch and number of rounds – miraculous! I am sure my swatch is lying to me) with the second set of needles I tried, so now I just need to get on with it.
One further concern is the volume of yarn required – I stashed 1394m and the pattern tells me I need 870m, but I have lost a bit of yarn in all of my previous attempts.
It uses one ball of (extremely beautiful) misti alpaca sock yarn – perfect (I have quite a few of those on my stash). This one is colourway 46.
What you see above is my third attempt (maybe fourth – I am losing track). It is an easy project, but I get to the end of a row and realise I haven’t done the double decrease properly and my attempts to undo one row always end in disaster. Or I forget to P2Tog at the end and get half-way through the next row before I realise everything is slightly out of alignment. I need to learn how to fix mistakes – is there any course on that?